After 55 years of very active car collecting--much to the chagrin of my parents; I have learned a few things I would like to share.
1. Never put any tool away until the repair project is OVER. I have often cleaned a tool, and put it away, only to retrieve it again.
2. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS put out blankets, and towels over the bumpers and fenders when removing pre-WWII lenses. NEVER carry them over ANY hard surface. Lenses are one of the few parts that are difficult to find, and almost impossible to reproduce. Also WASH your hands prior any parts removal, especially lenses!! GO slow. Have a box handy lined with a TOWEL!!!
3. USE PCL or CLP from Break-Free Products, instead of wd40. PCL FOAMS, and tends to stay, and penetrate. It is usually available in gun stores. The company has missed a great opportunity. They focus on guns--instead of cars. EVEN here in Southern California we have more cars than guns. For 20 years I have tried to get Break-Free to enhance their strategy. I should have bought this division when they moved to Florida years ago. PCL is handy also, around the house, on pesky plumbing fittings. DO not wait--make a note. Search for some NOW, well worth the $12. Send me a Thank You note.
4. Tail lights--for ALL of us with collector cars; Pre-WWII thru the 60's, brake and tail lights are our only protection from SUVS, rice rockets, and tail-gaters with disc brakes. These drivers are oblivious to 6 volts or drum brakes. Driving habits have changed drastically in the last 15 years. Tail lights are taken for granted. They, along with the fuel system and brakes, are the most critical systems. Check the driving lights at night. Check the brake lights from various distances. I marvel at the Rolls Royce and Bentleys from 1956-65, that have cracked, faded or fogged tail lenses. UNBELIEVABLE!!! I get all kinds of stupid responses, that I will spare you. Just look at the size of the lenses, and think of the calamity that is caused if the driver behind you does not see you brake!!! Another swell example are the pre-1934 Pierce-Arrow and Packards.
5. Any repair project: Think, plan, organize. Acquire all of the parts and tools first. Anticipate: will solvent be needed? Will penetrant (PCL) be needed? NOW, when I do any project on my cars, or around the house; I make a list and plan. I review manuals or instruction sheets. My latest projects seem to go faster, with less frustration.
6. When doing a repair that entails more than 1 part: take a photo, or 5. I have given up trying to rely on my memory. If it is a complex rebuild or one that will span days, make notes and bag parts in clear plastic bags, so the re-assembly can be done accurately and efficiently.
I got my first car when I was 11 (a wrecked, rolled and burned 1955 Porsche Speedster). I spent almost 5 years restoring it. I had to learn German to understand the manuals. This was at the very beginning of the Porsche "culture" in Southern California. I learned alot--
1. ALWAYS use the proper tool. If it is not handy, go get it or wait.
2. ALWAYS have a designated spot for tools and spares. Nothing is more frustrating than making a project of locating an item, when in the middle of the main repair project. ALWAYS clean the tool BEFORE returning it to its proper place.
3. Always use the proper parts. Too many owners of Rolls Royce, Porsche or Bentley have sought cheaper parts, only to suffer a larger calamity down the road. A good example are rubber seals. There are dozens of rubber compounds: nitriles, vitons, silicones etc. Each is designed and maufactured for specific applications, including heat, exposure to fluids, torque, and compression. I learned alot while I was building data centers, and developing computer systems for Parker Seal in the early 1970's.
4. Quality cars are built to last, and to be repaired. They must be properly maintained. Another example is Rolls Royce. Some owners spent alot of money on the purchase, and just assumed they would last. Therefore maintenance was ignored, or corners were cut. I hear almost daily from car owners, whose cars have deteriorated, far beyond what is necessary. This was caused by poor maintenance, the use of improper parts and fluids. A Silver Shadow can have the brake/leveling system destroyed, by the use of the wrong fuid; resulting in an $8,000 brake job.
5. If you are going to acquire a collector car, JOIN the club BEFORE purchase. Learn about the true idiosyncracies, performance, and costs of that model. The ENTHUSIASTS belong to clubs, and are most knowledgeable. Also, their cars tend to be in better condition; and make better acquisitions.
6. Manuals: a necessary investment that cannot be overstated. Learn about the motorcar, even if you do not do repairs. To become involved and knowledgeable, will encourage the owner to perform more tasks, and will be vital "insurance" when a repair is hired out. The manuals are only worthwile if actually read and used.
1. ALWAYS use the proper tool. If it is not handy, go get it or wait.
2. ALWAYS have a designated spot for tools and spares. Nothing is more frustrating than making a project of locating an item, when in the middle of the main repair project. ALWAYS clean the tool BEFORE returning it to its proper place.
3. Always use the proper parts. Too many owners of Rolls Royce, Porsche or Bentley have sought cheaper parts, only to suffer a larger calamity down the road. A good example are rubber seals. There are dozens of rubber compounds: nitriles, vitons, silicones etc. Each is designed and maufactured for specific applications, including heat, exposure to fluids, torque, and compression. I learned alot while I was building data centers, and developing computer systems for Parker Seal in the early 1970's.
4. Quality cars are built to last, and to be repaired. They must be properly maintained. Another example is Rolls Royce. Some owners spent alot of money on the purchase, and just assumed they would last. Therefore maintenance was ignored, or corners were cut. I hear almost daily from car owners, whose cars have deteriorated, far beyond what is necessary. This was caused by poor maintenance, the use of improper parts and fluids. A Silver Shadow can have the brake/leveling system destroyed, by the use of the wrong fuid; resulting in an $8,000 brake job.
5. If you are going to acquire a collector car, JOIN the club BEFORE purchase. Learn about the true idiosyncracies, performance, and costs of that model. The ENTHUSIASTS belong to clubs, and are most knowledgeable. Also, their cars tend to be in better condition; and make better acquisitions.
6. Manuals: a necessary investment that cannot be overstated. Learn about the motorcar, even if you do not do repairs. To become involved and knowledgeable, will encourage the owner to perform more tasks, and will be vital "insurance" when a repair is hired out. The manuals are only worthwile if actually read and used.
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