About 1996, I was told that the Lucas bulb handle screwdriver is correct for 1946-56 Royce and Bentley. I relied on the word of an "expert", here in Southern California. I acquired a few of these from the "expert". Subsequently I sold a FEW to fine chaps in Australia. A discussion ensued. I was strident, as I was relying on the "expert". He was wrong. I was wrong. My sincere apologies to the 2 chaps in Australia. IF you will kindly return the improper drivers to me, I will immediately send RESTORED and PROPER screwdrivers, and pay postage both ways. Recently I have tried to correct and educate some sellers, on ebay and elsewhere. For the most part those sellers resent me. Most sellers, of these tools, do not care about being accurate. Apparently they just want the $$$. So there are some folks that will mis-represent, intentionally. Buying junk or incorrect items is no bargain.
SO-I did the SAME THING. Only I did not do it intentionally. My selling these was out of my ignorance. Now I am trying to rectify MY ERROR!!! You, the reader, might ask yourself "why so long?" I have searched my onerous and copious paperwork to find the 2 chaps (that I recall), addresses. I was unable locate the names. After more than 12 years, this STILL bugs me! SO now I go public. SO if you go to an RR/B meet, PLEASE ask if anybody got an incorrect screwdriver from a well-meaning, but mis-informed character in California. I will make it right. I really hate making mistakes. I dislike it more when others suffer. I dislike it EVEN more when they are on another continent.
ROLLS ROYCE and BENTLEY 1956 thru 1965 BOOT CONTENTS
This is not another Earth changing subject, however there has been some confusion, even by long time owners.
1956-1959 6 Cylinder:
There is no cover on the spare tyre
The chrome kinsman pump is clipped just under the spare tyre
The jack is clamped with a leather strap; that is clipped to the boot floor. There is a leather piece that snaps, to secure the handle.
The 2 piece Britool, wheelbrace (lug wrench), is clipped to the boot floor in front of the jack.
The rubber bezel torch (flashlight) is clipped to the left side of the spare cover.
The tool tray is the same for lhd and rhd chassis..
Next to the tool tray is a brass tecalemit grease gun, on LHD CARS ONLY!!
I do not have a clue what RRMC was thinking, regarding RHD cars!!!
The front band tool, was a dealer provided item, and not included.
Some early chassis have spin on hubcaps which require the hex hubcap tool.
1960-1962 8 Cylinder, single headlight (S/C II, and S2):
There is no cover on the spare tyre, for early chassis. Later models had a cover attached with 2 spring pins.
The chrome kinsman pump is clipped just under the spare.
The jack is clamped with a leather strap; that is clipped to the boot floor. There is a leather piece that snaps, to secure the handle.
The 2 piece Britool, wheelbrace (lug wrench), polished steel, is clipped to the boot floor in front of the jack.
The rubber bezel torch (flashlight) is clipped to the left side of the spare cover.
The tool tray is different for lhd and rhd chassis. (refer to my tool blogs)
Next to the tool tray is a Front Band Transmission tool, on LHD CARS ONLY!!
I do not have a clue what RRMC was thinking, regarding RHD cars!!!
I am unsure if one was provided.
ALSO: some chassis have single tail lenses, as the 6 cylinder; some have the later 2 piece type. I can find no pattern, by date or other method.
1963-1965 8 Cylinder, double headlight (S/C III, and S3):
There is a cover on the spare tyre,
The chrome kinsman pump is clipped just under the spare.
The jack is clamped with a leather strap; that is clipped to the boot floor. There is a leather piece that snaps, to secure the handle.
The 2 piece Britool, wheelbrace (lug wrench), is clipped to the boot floor in front of the jack.
The rubber bezel torch (flashlight) is clipped to the left side of the spare cover.
The tool tray for lhd has a rubber plug for the unnecessary pre-focus bulb.
Next to the tool tray is a Front Band Transmission tool, on LHD CARS ONLY!!
I do not have a clue what RRMC was thinking, regarding RHD cars!!!
I am unsure if one was provided.
NOTE some coachbuilt cars have different tool trays, and different jack clamps.
Especially the wonderful Radford, and the elegant James Young.
If you have any questions on the restoration of the jack, other tools or the always fun Kinsman pump; contact me. I always enjoy sharing the fun and excitement, that usually includes a few surprises.
While I am on the boot subject—
Please read other blogs about my accessory kits:
A detail bag, emergency repair, the First Aid kit,
And the all important matching picnic basket,
Just waiting for the tasty tempenades, pestos, infused olive oils, Balsamic vinegars, Dip-N-Toss, and the exotic flavoured sea salts and peppers supplied by The Posh Gourmet.
THE PERFECT detail to make every touring event special!!!
This is not another Earth changing subject, however there has been some confusion, even by long time owners.
1956-1959 6 Cylinder:
There is no cover on the spare tyre
The chrome kinsman pump is clipped just under the spare tyre
The jack is clamped with a leather strap; that is clipped to the boot floor. There is a leather piece that snaps, to secure the handle.
The 2 piece Britool, wheelbrace (lug wrench), is clipped to the boot floor in front of the jack.
The rubber bezel torch (flashlight) is clipped to the left side of the spare cover.
The tool tray is the same for lhd and rhd chassis..
Next to the tool tray is a brass tecalemit grease gun, on LHD CARS ONLY!!
I do not have a clue what RRMC was thinking, regarding RHD cars!!!
The front band tool, was a dealer provided item, and not included.
Some early chassis have spin on hubcaps which require the hex hubcap tool.
1960-1962 8 Cylinder, single headlight (S/C II, and S2):
There is no cover on the spare tyre, for early chassis. Later models had a cover attached with 2 spring pins.
The chrome kinsman pump is clipped just under the spare.
The jack is clamped with a leather strap; that is clipped to the boot floor. There is a leather piece that snaps, to secure the handle.
The 2 piece Britool, wheelbrace (lug wrench), polished steel, is clipped to the boot floor in front of the jack.
The rubber bezel torch (flashlight) is clipped to the left side of the spare cover.
The tool tray is different for lhd and rhd chassis. (refer to my tool blogs)
Next to the tool tray is a Front Band Transmission tool, on LHD CARS ONLY!!
I do not have a clue what RRMC was thinking, regarding RHD cars!!!
I am unsure if one was provided.
ALSO: some chassis have single tail lenses, as the 6 cylinder; some have the later 2 piece type. I can find no pattern, by date or other method.
1963-1965 8 Cylinder, double headlight (S/C III, and S3):
There is a cover on the spare tyre,
The chrome kinsman pump is clipped just under the spare.
The jack is clamped with a leather strap; that is clipped to the boot floor. There is a leather piece that snaps, to secure the handle.
The 2 piece Britool, wheelbrace (lug wrench), is clipped to the boot floor in front of the jack.
The rubber bezel torch (flashlight) is clipped to the left side of the spare cover.
The tool tray for lhd has a rubber plug for the unnecessary pre-focus bulb.
Next to the tool tray is a Front Band Transmission tool, on LHD CARS ONLY!!
I do not have a clue what RRMC was thinking, regarding RHD cars!!!
I am unsure if one was provided.
NOTE some coachbuilt cars have different tool trays, and different jack clamps.
Especially the wonderful Radford, and the elegant James Young.
If you have any questions on the restoration of the jack, other tools or the always fun Kinsman pump; contact me. I always enjoy sharing the fun and excitement, that usually includes a few surprises.
While I am on the boot subject—
Please read other blogs about my accessory kits:
A detail bag, emergency repair, the First Aid kit,
And the all important matching picnic basket,
Just waiting for the tasty tempenades, pestos, infused olive oils, Balsamic vinegars, Dip-N-Toss, and the exotic flavoured sea salts and peppers supplied by The Posh Gourmet.
THE PERFECT detail to make every touring event special!!!
Rolls Royce and Bentley pliers and adjustable spanners
This is not one of the burning issues of our day, however I thought I would attempt to clarify and communicate a minor issue. There are a number of folks who apparently do not know, and do not care, about this accuracy.
Pre-WWII only Lucas was used for both tools. The pliers are the bevel nose type. The adjustable spanner is the Girder “91” without the Crown on the reverse side. The Minor and “93” Major were not supplied. The pliers are plain steel finish, on the far left.
Early Post WAR (EPW) 1946-1956:
ONLY the “91” girder was used; some had the Crown, some were plain. I cannot find a pattern of usage. The girder with the small hole in the lower jaw, is an aftermarket tool, that had accessory jaws. The pliers are Lucas ELEC, with the single side wire cutters. Plain steel finish and then later, white cad was used. Second from the left.
1956-1965:
ONLY Wilkinsons snub nose type pliers (narrow .75 inches); were used. Not the bevel nose. Also some dealers represent the wider Wilkinsons as being correct, but they do not fit the insert. Third from the left. Notice the narrow jaw area, that fits the insert properly. For 1956 thru 1962 Royce and Bentley used the 8 inch Garringtons adjustable spanner. The 4 headlight motorcars, 1963-1965; used the 8 inch King Dick. Not photographed.
1966-1975:
The Lucas ELEC, with double wire cutters, and chrome plating was used. “Rolls Royce” was stamped in the middle, for both marques. Far right, in photo. The Draper girder, with a dark brushed finish was also supplied. I have seen some with no brand. I believe King Dick to be incorrect; however I am not absolutely certain. I really invite information on this!!!
1975-1980
This is not one of the burning issues of our day, however I thought I would attempt to clarify and communicate a minor issue. There are a number of folks who apparently do not know, and do not care, about this accuracy.
Pre-WWII only Lucas was used for both tools. The pliers are the bevel nose type. The adjustable spanner is the Girder “91” without the Crown on the reverse side. The Minor and “93” Major were not supplied. The pliers are plain steel finish, on the far left.
Early Post WAR (EPW) 1946-1956:
ONLY the “91” girder was used; some had the Crown, some were plain. I cannot find a pattern of usage. The girder with the small hole in the lower jaw, is an aftermarket tool, that had accessory jaws. The pliers are Lucas ELEC, with the single side wire cutters. Plain steel finish and then later, white cad was used. Second from the left.
1956-1965:
ONLY Wilkinsons snub nose type pliers (narrow .75 inches); were used. Not the bevel nose. Also some dealers represent the wider Wilkinsons as being correct, but they do not fit the insert. Third from the left. Notice the narrow jaw area, that fits the insert properly. For 1956 thru 1962 Royce and Bentley used the 8 inch Garringtons adjustable spanner. The 4 headlight motorcars, 1963-1965; used the 8 inch King Dick. Not photographed.
1966-1975:
The Lucas ELEC, with double wire cutters, and chrome plating was used. “Rolls Royce” was stamped in the middle, for both marques. Far right, in photo. The Draper girder, with a dark brushed finish was also supplied. I have seen some with no brand. I believe King Dick to be incorrect; however I am not absolutely certain. I really invite information on this!!!
1975-1980
The same pliers were used, but somtimes a different shaped handle, so that some earlier pliers do not fit the "bump" tool kits. The adjustable spanner is a chrome 6 inch King Dick.
After 1980 pliers are a "V" shape, in 2 sizes. The adjustable spanners are 6 inch King Dick and then Gedore after about 1995.
ROLLS ROYCE and Bentley TIPS 1956-1965
The following are a number of items that the owner should perform.
Obtain and ACTUALLY read the owners handbook. (I have just received some questions from owners, one who has had the car 10 years. The information was readily available in the Handbook).
Join RROC and The Cloud Society. The technical information from the Cloud Society is well worth the price of admission. Do not procrastinate, just do it.
Check the 11 lubrication points and your spring gaters.
Check the propshaft (drive shaft) for one piece or 2 piece. If it is 2 piece, get 2 extra Woodruff keys, and put them in the glove box. If the prop shaft separates, the motorcar fails to proceed.
Check the weep holes in the engine block. They should be open.
Lift the bottom of the back seat cushion. Many owners have hidden papers and valuables there.
Get the chassis card (build sheet), and read it!!! It states colours, dates and options..
CHECK your own tail lights. Check the turn signals and brake lights during the day and the night. I see soooo many of these cars with poor tail lenses, and I hear soooo many lame excuses. With suvs and speedrockets, it is one of the few tasks you can perform, to protect your car. Horror stories abound.
If the transmission is shifting abruptly, or too slowly, the front or rear bands need adjustment. This needs to be done with special tools, before an overhaul is required.
Check the rear armrest. Some owners are unaware that there are vanities, etc in some armrests.
Remove the hubcaps and loosen a few lugnuts. Some have been secured with an airgun, or have become corroded. The time to discover this is BEFORE there is a flat on the road. A friend recently did this and discovered a MISSING lugnut.
Check the boot tools. Clean the jack, and verify operation. LHD cars either have the Tecalemit grease gun, or the front band tool on the boot floor, next to the toolkit. Check the torch for proper operation. The female power outlet is above the speedometer.
Check your tool kit. There are 5 unique inserts with 6 variants. The definitions are on my other blogs. The tools are rare and valuable. Consider it an investment, to enhance the value of your motor car.
Clean and oil the tools. Even if they are not perfect, you can retard deterioration.
If you have any questions, or want your tools upgraded; contact me. ROYAJUDD@aol.com.
About 90% of the kits have something incorrect. You may not care, but at least you should know.
SPRAY the rubber insert with olive oil. In fact, spray your tires, gaters, and all seals with olive oil. Olive oil has been used as a natural preservative, and anti-oxidant for centuries. Since I co-founded the Posh Gourmet, I have learned a lot, and written articles about the many benefits of olive oil. I would always spray on, in several applications.
When removing the hubcap, DO NOT pry the lip. Use a screwdriver thru the valvestem hole, to pop the cap off. Keep a cheap driver under the tool kit for this purpose.
Do not use wax or oil on the wood. They penetrate into the wood, and reappears after stripping; ruining the refinishing task.
If you have any manuals—peruse them periodically. Even if you do not perform maintenance and repair tasks; you should be knowledgeable. Knowledge is power. It is hard to believe, but not all mechanics know everything. Unless you are dealing with Roger Ford.
Always bring the car up to temperature. Never drive for a few blocks. For every gallon of petrol used, a gallon of H2O is sent into our atmosphere. If the vapor, and system is not hot enough, cold vapor remains in side the exhaust headers, the exhaust pipe and mufflers. One reason that some chaps install stainless systems.
I have created a GYM bag with detaling supplies and tools, to take to shows, unfolded cloth diapers, spray wash, brushes, metal polish, etc.
I have a TOURING bag for each of my motorcars. A few tools, for actual use, duct tape--heavy, some brass fitting for fuel lines (thank you Mr. John Decker), a fan belt (mandatory for air cooled cars like Franklin and Porsche), hand cleaner, flashlight, hose repair kit, emery paper, small file, spray lubricant. I also carry a bar of IVORY soap----handy for lubricating screws, hose clamps etc.
I also have SURVIVAL KIT: water, small first aid kit, jar of vaseline, lip balm, sunscreen.
And of course, my MATCHING PICNIC BASKETS, ready for that impromtu lunch. I grab a bottle of the Posh Gourmet TASTY Balsamic vinegars, infused olive oils, a jar of pesto, (I go nuts over the Parmesan Pesto, in oil), a jar of olive tampenade. Now all I need is a loaf of bread, some cheese, a little fine meat, and a beverage. Now I am set, for a meal that is equal to my motorcar, and the Love of my Life!!!
So much for grey poupon!!!
The following are a number of items that the owner should perform.
Obtain and ACTUALLY read the owners handbook. (I have just received some questions from owners, one who has had the car 10 years. The information was readily available in the Handbook).
Join RROC and The Cloud Society. The technical information from the Cloud Society is well worth the price of admission. Do not procrastinate, just do it.
Check the 11 lubrication points and your spring gaters.
Check the propshaft (drive shaft) for one piece or 2 piece. If it is 2 piece, get 2 extra Woodruff keys, and put them in the glove box. If the prop shaft separates, the motorcar fails to proceed.
Check the weep holes in the engine block. They should be open.
Lift the bottom of the back seat cushion. Many owners have hidden papers and valuables there.
Get the chassis card (build sheet), and read it!!! It states colours, dates and options..
CHECK your own tail lights. Check the turn signals and brake lights during the day and the night. I see soooo many of these cars with poor tail lenses, and I hear soooo many lame excuses. With suvs and speedrockets, it is one of the few tasks you can perform, to protect your car. Horror stories abound.
If the transmission is shifting abruptly, or too slowly, the front or rear bands need adjustment. This needs to be done with special tools, before an overhaul is required.
Check the rear armrest. Some owners are unaware that there are vanities, etc in some armrests.
Remove the hubcaps and loosen a few lugnuts. Some have been secured with an airgun, or have become corroded. The time to discover this is BEFORE there is a flat on the road. A friend recently did this and discovered a MISSING lugnut.
Check the boot tools. Clean the jack, and verify operation. LHD cars either have the Tecalemit grease gun, or the front band tool on the boot floor, next to the toolkit. Check the torch for proper operation. The female power outlet is above the speedometer.
Check your tool kit. There are 5 unique inserts with 6 variants. The definitions are on my other blogs. The tools are rare and valuable. Consider it an investment, to enhance the value of your motor car.
Clean and oil the tools. Even if they are not perfect, you can retard deterioration.
If you have any questions, or want your tools upgraded; contact me. ROYAJUDD@aol.com.
About 90% of the kits have something incorrect. You may not care, but at least you should know.
SPRAY the rubber insert with olive oil. In fact, spray your tires, gaters, and all seals with olive oil. Olive oil has been used as a natural preservative, and anti-oxidant for centuries. Since I co-founded the Posh Gourmet, I have learned a lot, and written articles about the many benefits of olive oil. I would always spray on, in several applications.
When removing the hubcap, DO NOT pry the lip. Use a screwdriver thru the valvestem hole, to pop the cap off. Keep a cheap driver under the tool kit for this purpose.
Do not use wax or oil on the wood. They penetrate into the wood, and reappears after stripping; ruining the refinishing task.
If you have any manuals—peruse them periodically. Even if you do not perform maintenance and repair tasks; you should be knowledgeable. Knowledge is power. It is hard to believe, but not all mechanics know everything. Unless you are dealing with Roger Ford.
Always bring the car up to temperature. Never drive for a few blocks. For every gallon of petrol used, a gallon of H2O is sent into our atmosphere. If the vapor, and system is not hot enough, cold vapor remains in side the exhaust headers, the exhaust pipe and mufflers. One reason that some chaps install stainless systems.
I have created a GYM bag with detaling supplies and tools, to take to shows, unfolded cloth diapers, spray wash, brushes, metal polish, etc.
I have a TOURING bag for each of my motorcars. A few tools, for actual use, duct tape--heavy, some brass fitting for fuel lines (thank you Mr. John Decker), a fan belt (mandatory for air cooled cars like Franklin and Porsche), hand cleaner, flashlight, hose repair kit, emery paper, small file, spray lubricant. I also carry a bar of IVORY soap----handy for lubricating screws, hose clamps etc.
I also have SURVIVAL KIT: water, small first aid kit, jar of vaseline, lip balm, sunscreen.
And of course, my MATCHING PICNIC BASKETS, ready for that impromtu lunch. I grab a bottle of the Posh Gourmet TASTY Balsamic vinegars, infused olive oils, a jar of pesto, (I go nuts over the Parmesan Pesto, in oil), a jar of olive tampenade. Now all I need is a loaf of bread, some cheese, a little fine meat, and a beverage. Now I am set, for a meal that is equal to my motorcar, and the Love of my Life!!!
So much for grey poupon!!!
ENGLISH SCREWDRIVERS, Mostly for Rolls Royce- Bentley from 1934 through 1990:
In the 1930’s all English screwdrivers had wood handles. There are basically 2 types: wood worker and automotive. Most were made in Sheffield, England.
The Royces and Bentley of the Pre-WWII period utilized MOSTLY drivers by Robt. Sorby. (Whenever there is ANY discussion about anything on these marques, the term “ALWAYS” is foolish, and can be refuted.) Most of these motorcars used drivers or turnscrews in 6 inch, 5 inch, 4 inch and 3 inch lengths. The tools lists refer to the length of the blade, NOT the total length. Some chassis types utilized all four—some just 2. Further investigation by individual tools lists, and chassis cards is advisable. I have heard conflicting reports from experts far more knowledgeable than myself.
EPW (Early Post War).
The first kits for RR/B had black bakelite solid handles and were 7 inches long. These were used in 1946 though early 1949. I have previously described the tool kit application. In mid 1949 either a long or short wood handle replaced the black bakelite. The shape is an extended long oval. NO grooves, as the woodworker tools have. Generally Colonel, or Sorby were the makers. I have found some unmarked and some marked “Sheffield”. Please consider that these chassis were built over a 13 year period. There has been MUCH confusion and misrepresentation on these.
The Silver Cloud/”S” Motorcars
This is simple: ALL screwdrivers are 5.5 inches long, and have a FLAT bulb wood handle. Where the EPW handles are an elongated, symetrical handle; these have a wider radius at the top---and have a flatter curve. They are less BULBOUS, and the RHD S/C II kit shows the driver placed flat.
Silver Shadow, “T”
These motorcars have the plastic FLAT toolkit; and have the English STANLEY “88” screwdriver, with the aluminum screw top and 3 bits. Draper supplied the girder, and BRITOOL supplied the DOE.
Silver Shadow II, Silver Wraith II, “T2”
These motor cars have 2 STANLEY black wood handle drivers. They are model “25’. One slotted and one Phillips is provided. This was the first of the BUMP kits, with bulbs in the lid. The DCE spanners are articulated BEDFORD.
The 1980 and onward
These chassis types utilize a black plastic handle STEADFAST, or HEYCO (German), with 3 bits. Gedore spanners were provided.
In the 1930’s all English screwdrivers had wood handles. There are basically 2 types: wood worker and automotive. Most were made in Sheffield, England.
The Royces and Bentley of the Pre-WWII period utilized MOSTLY drivers by Robt. Sorby. (Whenever there is ANY discussion about anything on these marques, the term “ALWAYS” is foolish, and can be refuted.) Most of these motorcars used drivers or turnscrews in 6 inch, 5 inch, 4 inch and 3 inch lengths. The tools lists refer to the length of the blade, NOT the total length. Some chassis types utilized all four—some just 2. Further investigation by individual tools lists, and chassis cards is advisable. I have heard conflicting reports from experts far more knowledgeable than myself.
EPW (Early Post War).
The first kits for RR/B had black bakelite solid handles and were 7 inches long. These were used in 1946 though early 1949. I have previously described the tool kit application. In mid 1949 either a long or short wood handle replaced the black bakelite. The shape is an extended long oval. NO grooves, as the woodworker tools have. Generally Colonel, or Sorby were the makers. I have found some unmarked and some marked “Sheffield”. Please consider that these chassis were built over a 13 year period. There has been MUCH confusion and misrepresentation on these.
The Silver Cloud/”S” Motorcars
This is simple: ALL screwdrivers are 5.5 inches long, and have a FLAT bulb wood handle. Where the EPW handles are an elongated, symetrical handle; these have a wider radius at the top---and have a flatter curve. They are less BULBOUS, and the RHD S/C II kit shows the driver placed flat.
Silver Shadow, “T”
These motorcars have the plastic FLAT toolkit; and have the English STANLEY “88” screwdriver, with the aluminum screw top and 3 bits. Draper supplied the girder, and BRITOOL supplied the DOE.
Silver Shadow II, Silver Wraith II, “T2”
These motor cars have 2 STANLEY black wood handle drivers. They are model “25’. One slotted and one Phillips is provided. This was the first of the BUMP kits, with bulbs in the lid. The DCE spanners are articulated BEDFORD.
The 1980 and onward
These chassis types utilize a black plastic handle STEADFAST, or HEYCO (German), with 3 bits. Gedore spanners were provided.
ENGLISH TYRE (TIRE) PRESSURE GAUGES
Yes this is a minor issue in the scope of things. I have noticed A LOT of confusion, and misinformation. I will attempt to clarify, explain and illucidate.
I may not be totally accurate on Pre-WWII gauges, but I think I can shed some light, and open myself up for correction, or amplification.
The gauges in this photo are placed in Chronological order.
On the far left is a late 1920’s to early 1930’s KISMET.
Notice the offset head. This one has a round body with a hex gauge. Some have round gauges. There is some discussion about which is correct for Bentley and Royce. I welcome more information.
.
Next is a later Kismet. Notice that the head is centered on the body, and there is a thumb notch. I believe this is from the early 1930’s to 1940
Next is the common Early Post-WWII hex shaped Kismet. Notice the round head and tyre valve tool. While close, this is NOT the proper tool for any Bentley or Royce.
Next is the common Early Post-WWII hex Kismet. Notice the thumb notch in the head and the absence of the tyre valve tool. While close, this is NOT the proper tool for any Bentley or Royce.
The above gauges are often represented by sellers and collectors, as being correct for Bentley or Royce. It is this common misrepresentation that has prompted me to create this BLOG!!!
The next gauge is the Hex Kismet, with thumb notch AND Tyre valve tool.
It is correct for ALL 1946 thru 1965 Bentley and Royce.
Next is the common Dunlop No. 6. Notice the pointed top with 4 facets. The valve is on the side. This gauge was used by many marques from 1966 thru 1975. This tool was used on the Royce Silver Shadow and Bentley “T1”.
On the far right is the Dunlop G6. The valve is on the very top, and has distinguishing grooves. This gauge was used on numerous British cars, including ALL 1975 and onward Bentley and Royce (Silver Shadow II, Silver Wraith II, “T2” etc).
Yes this is a minor issue in the scope of things. I have noticed A LOT of confusion, and misinformation. I will attempt to clarify, explain and illucidate.
I may not be totally accurate on Pre-WWII gauges, but I think I can shed some light, and open myself up for correction, or amplification.
The gauges in this photo are placed in Chronological order.
On the far left is a late 1920’s to early 1930’s KISMET.
Notice the offset head. This one has a round body with a hex gauge. Some have round gauges. There is some discussion about which is correct for Bentley and Royce. I welcome more information.
.
Next is a later Kismet. Notice that the head is centered on the body, and there is a thumb notch. I believe this is from the early 1930’s to 1940
Next is the common Early Post-WWII hex shaped Kismet. Notice the round head and tyre valve tool. While close, this is NOT the proper tool for any Bentley or Royce.
Next is the common Early Post-WWII hex Kismet. Notice the thumb notch in the head and the absence of the tyre valve tool. While close, this is NOT the proper tool for any Bentley or Royce.
The above gauges are often represented by sellers and collectors, as being correct for Bentley or Royce. It is this common misrepresentation that has prompted me to create this BLOG!!!
The next gauge is the Hex Kismet, with thumb notch AND Tyre valve tool.
It is correct for ALL 1946 thru 1965 Bentley and Royce.
Next is the common Dunlop No. 6. Notice the pointed top with 4 facets. The valve is on the side. This gauge was used by many marques from 1966 thru 1975. This tool was used on the Royce Silver Shadow and Bentley “T1”.
On the far right is the Dunlop G6. The valve is on the very top, and has distinguishing grooves. This gauge was used on numerous British cars, including ALL 1975 and onward Bentley and Royce (Silver Shadow II, Silver Wraith II, “T2” etc).
Rolls Royce and Bentley toolkits POST WAR (WWII--the last legally declared war, by the USA).
The 1946-1956 kits and other tools are explained on my blog
The 1956-1959 6 cyl cars:
Long rectangle rubber insert
GARRINGTONS adj Spanner
Exhaust valve tool
Delco ignition spanner
Multi-tool Garringtons or Britool forged, not cast 1.1 ounces (cast pieces are .9 OZ.)
Spark plug tool white cad, or raw steel
Sump spanner Britool or Garringtons
Wilkinsons SNUBNOSE pliers
Kismet tyre pressure gauge hex with thumb notch and tyre valve tool
2 COMBOS squared closed end Britool or Garringtons
Moore & Wright feeler gauge
Wood handle flat bulb screwdriver
Bulb set
1960-1962 single headlight V8
The delco spanner, the M & W; and exhaust valve tool are deleted There are SOME exceptions.
The RHD cars have a flatter insert with a BUMP for bulbs; and the driver lies flat
Later cars (the last 6), have King Dick Spanner
1963-1965 double HL cars
Feeler gauge is deleted
K.D is only adjustable spanner utilized
LHD cars have rubber bulb plug in the HL bulb spot. With seal beams, the H/L bulb is unnecessary. (some early owners complained about an open spot, therefore the rubber plug.)
1966-1975 SS and “T1"; early Corniche
Plain black flat plastic case
Dunlop No.6 pressure gauge
DRAPER 6 inch adj spanner
Long Britool DOE
Allen tool for The Lady
M & W 4 blade feeler
Stanley wood handle driver with screw top and 4 bits
Britool sumrad
Lucas ELEC pliers CHROME and with RR script.
Bulb complement—some without marker bulb
1975-1981 SS II, T2 and Early Camargue, later Corniche:
First black plastic BUMP kit, with bulbs in the lid, and logos on the lid.
2 wood handle Stanley "25" drivers, 1 slotted, 1 Phillips.
2 articulated Bedford Kestral spanners
3 Bedford DOE
Dunlop G 6 pressure gauge with the opening at the bulb top that has 4 rings
King Dick 6” monkey wrench type spanner, chrome
Lucas elec pliers, chrome—wider handle at joint than previous.
Tyre tread depth gauge
Allen hex, for The Lady
1981-1990, and onward Spur, Spirit, Camargue and same chassis type Bentley
The bump lid with bulbs
“V" shaped black pliers
Plastic tyre valve tool, white or black
Dunlop G6 pressure gauge
Tyre depth gauge
K.D. 6 inch monkey type adj. spanner, chrome
Black plastic driver with 3 bits
One small doe Bedford or Gedore
3 Combo spanners, Bedford or Gedore
Early kits had larger pliers, lengthwise in the insert. Later kits have smaller pliers along the bottom edge.
The 1946-1956 kits and other tools are explained on my blog
The 1956-1959 6 cyl cars:
Long rectangle rubber insert
GARRINGTONS adj Spanner
Exhaust valve tool
Delco ignition spanner
Multi-tool Garringtons or Britool forged, not cast 1.1 ounces (cast pieces are .9 OZ.)
Spark plug tool white cad, or raw steel
Sump spanner Britool or Garringtons
Wilkinsons SNUBNOSE pliers
Kismet tyre pressure gauge hex with thumb notch and tyre valve tool
2 COMBOS squared closed end Britool or Garringtons
Moore & Wright feeler gauge
Wood handle flat bulb screwdriver
Bulb set
1960-1962 single headlight V8
The delco spanner, the M & W; and exhaust valve tool are deleted There are SOME exceptions.
The RHD cars have a flatter insert with a BUMP for bulbs; and the driver lies flat
Later cars (the last 6), have King Dick Spanner
1963-1965 double HL cars
Feeler gauge is deleted
K.D is only adjustable spanner utilized
LHD cars have rubber bulb plug in the HL bulb spot. With seal beams, the H/L bulb is unnecessary. (some early owners complained about an open spot, therefore the rubber plug.)
1966-1975 SS and “T1"; early Corniche
Plain black flat plastic case
Dunlop No.6 pressure gauge
DRAPER 6 inch adj spanner
Long Britool DOE
Allen tool for The Lady
M & W 4 blade feeler
Stanley wood handle driver with screw top and 4 bits
Britool sumrad
Lucas ELEC pliers CHROME and with RR script.
Bulb complement—some without marker bulb
1975-1981 SS II, T2 and Early Camargue, later Corniche:
First black plastic BUMP kit, with bulbs in the lid, and logos on the lid.
2 wood handle Stanley "25" drivers, 1 slotted, 1 Phillips.
2 articulated Bedford Kestral spanners
3 Bedford DOE
Dunlop G 6 pressure gauge with the opening at the bulb top that has 4 rings
King Dick 6” monkey wrench type spanner, chrome
Lucas elec pliers, chrome—wider handle at joint than previous.
Tyre tread depth gauge
Allen hex, for The Lady
1981-1990, and onward Spur, Spirit, Camargue and same chassis type Bentley
The bump lid with bulbs
“V" shaped black pliers
Plastic tyre valve tool, white or black
Dunlop G6 pressure gauge
Tyre depth gauge
K.D. 6 inch monkey type adj. spanner, chrome
Black plastic driver with 3 bits
One small doe Bedford or Gedore
3 Combo spanners, Bedford or Gedore
Early kits had larger pliers, lengthwise in the insert. Later kits have smaller pliers along the bottom edge.
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