ROLLS ROYCE and Bentley TIPS 1956-1965
The following are a number of items that the owner should perform.
Obtain and ACTUALLY read the owners handbook. (I have just received some questions from owners, one who has had the car 10 years. The information was readily available in the Handbook).
Join RROC and The Cloud Society. The technical information from the Cloud Society is well worth the price of admission. Do not procrastinate, just do it.
Check the 11 lubrication points and your spring gaters.
Check the propshaft (drive shaft) for one piece or 2 piece. If it is 2 piece, get 2 extra Woodruff keys, and put them in the glove box. If the prop shaft separates, the motorcar fails to proceed.
Check the weep holes in the engine block. They should be open.
Lift the bottom of the back seat cushion. Many owners have hidden papers and valuables there.
Get the chassis card (build sheet), and read it!!! It states colours, dates and options..
CHECK your own tail lights. Check the turn signals and brake lights during the day and the night. I see soooo many of these cars with poor tail lenses, and I hear soooo many lame excuses. With suvs and speedrockets, it is one of the few tasks you can perform, to protect your car. Horror stories abound.
If the transmission is shifting abruptly, or too slowly, the front or rear bands need adjustment. This needs to be done with special tools, before an overhaul is required.
Check the rear armrest. Some owners are unaware that there are vanities, etc in some armrests.
Remove the hubcaps and loosen a few lugnuts. Some have been secured with an airgun, or have become corroded. The time to discover this is BEFORE there is a flat on the road. A friend recently did this and discovered a MISSING lugnut.
Check the boot tools. Clean the jack, and verify operation. LHD cars either have the Tecalemit grease gun, or the front band tool on the boot floor, next to the toolkit. Check the torch for proper operation. The female power outlet is above the speedometer.
Check your tool kit. There are 5 unique inserts with 6 variants. The definitions are on my other blogs. The tools are rare and valuable. Consider it an investment, to enhance the value of your motor car.
Clean and oil the tools. Even if they are not perfect, you can retard deterioration.
If you have any questions, or want your tools upgraded; contact me. ROYAJUDD@aol.com.
About 90% of the kits have something incorrect. You may not care, but at least you should know.
SPRAY the rubber insert with olive oil. In fact, spray your tires, gaters, and all seals with olive oil. Olive oil has been used as a natural preservative, and anti-oxidant for centuries. Since I co-founded the Posh Gourmet, I have learned a lot, and written articles about the many benefits of olive oil. I would always spray on, in several applications.
When removing the hubcap, DO NOT pry the lip. Use a screwdriver thru the valvestem hole, to pop the cap off. Keep a cheap driver under the tool kit for this purpose.
Do not use wax or oil on the wood. They penetrate into the wood, and reappears after stripping; ruining the refinishing task.
If you have any manuals—peruse them periodically. Even if you do not perform maintenance and repair tasks; you should be knowledgeable. Knowledge is power. It is hard to believe, but not all mechanics know everything. Unless you are dealing with Roger Ford.
Always bring the car up to temperature. Never drive for a few blocks. For every gallon of petrol used, a gallon of H2O is sent into our atmosphere. If the vapor, and system is not hot enough, cold vapor remains in side the exhaust headers, the exhaust pipe and mufflers. One reason that some chaps install stainless systems.
I have created a GYM bag with detaling supplies and tools, to take to shows, unfolded cloth diapers, spray wash, brushes, metal polish, etc.
I have a TOURING bag for each of my motorcars. A few tools, for actual use, duct tape--heavy, some brass fitting for fuel lines (thank you Mr. John Decker), a fan belt (mandatory for air cooled cars like Franklin and Porsche), hand cleaner, flashlight, hose repair kit, emery paper, small file, spray lubricant. I also carry a bar of IVORY soap----handy for lubricating screws, hose clamps etc.
I also have SURVIVAL KIT: water, small first aid kit, jar of vaseline, lip balm, sunscreen.
And of course, my MATCHING PICNIC BASKETS, ready for that impromtu lunch. I grab a bottle of the Posh Gourmet TASTY Balsamic vinegars, infused olive oils, a jar of pesto, (I go nuts over the Parmesan Pesto, in oil), a jar of olive tampenade. Now all I need is a loaf of bread, some cheese, a little fine meat, and a beverage. Now I am set, for a meal that is equal to my motorcar, and the Love of my Life!!!
So much for grey poupon!!!
ENGLISH SCREWDRIVERS, Mostly for Rolls Royce- Bentley from 1934 through 1990:
In the 1930’s all English screwdrivers had wood handles. There are basically 2 types: wood worker and automotive. Most were made in Sheffield, England.
The Royces and Bentley of the Pre-WWII period utilized MOSTLY drivers by Robt. Sorby. (Whenever there is ANY discussion about anything on these marques, the term “ALWAYS” is foolish, and can be refuted.) Most of these motorcars used drivers or turnscrews in 6 inch, 5 inch, 4 inch and 3 inch lengths. The tools lists refer to the length of the blade, NOT the total length. Some chassis types utilized all four—some just 2. Further investigation by individual tools lists, and chassis cards is advisable. I have heard conflicting reports from experts far more knowledgeable than myself.
EPW (Early Post War).
The first kits for RR/B had black bakelite solid handles and were 7 inches long. These were used in 1946 though early 1949. I have previously described the tool kit application. In mid 1949 either a long or short wood handle replaced the black bakelite. The shape is an extended long oval. NO grooves, as the woodworker tools have. Generally Colonel, or Sorby were the makers. I have found some unmarked and some marked “Sheffield”. Please consider that these chassis were built over a 13 year period. There has been MUCH confusion and misrepresentation on these.
The Silver Cloud/”S” Motorcars
This is simple: ALL screwdrivers are 5.5 inches long, and have a FLAT bulb wood handle. Where the EPW handles are an elongated, symetrical handle; these have a wider radius at the top---and have a flatter curve. They are less BULBOUS, and the RHD S/C II kit shows the driver placed flat.
Silver Shadow, “T”
These motorcars have the plastic FLAT toolkit; and have the English STANLEY “88” screwdriver, with the aluminum screw top and 3 bits. Draper supplied the girder, and BRITOOL supplied the DOE.
Silver Shadow II, Silver Wraith II, “T2”
These motor cars have 2 STANLEY black wood handle drivers. They are model “25’. One slotted and one Phillips is provided. This was the first of the BUMP kits, with bulbs in the lid. The DCE spanners are articulated BEDFORD.
The 1980 and onward
These chassis types utilize a black plastic handle STEADFAST, or HEYCO (German), with 3 bits. Gedore spanners were provided.
In the 1930’s all English screwdrivers had wood handles. There are basically 2 types: wood worker and automotive. Most were made in Sheffield, England.
The Royces and Bentley of the Pre-WWII period utilized MOSTLY drivers by Robt. Sorby. (Whenever there is ANY discussion about anything on these marques, the term “ALWAYS” is foolish, and can be refuted.) Most of these motorcars used drivers or turnscrews in 6 inch, 5 inch, 4 inch and 3 inch lengths. The tools lists refer to the length of the blade, NOT the total length. Some chassis types utilized all four—some just 2. Further investigation by individual tools lists, and chassis cards is advisable. I have heard conflicting reports from experts far more knowledgeable than myself.
EPW (Early Post War).
The first kits for RR/B had black bakelite solid handles and were 7 inches long. These were used in 1946 though early 1949. I have previously described the tool kit application. In mid 1949 either a long or short wood handle replaced the black bakelite. The shape is an extended long oval. NO grooves, as the woodworker tools have. Generally Colonel, or Sorby were the makers. I have found some unmarked and some marked “Sheffield”. Please consider that these chassis were built over a 13 year period. There has been MUCH confusion and misrepresentation on these.
The Silver Cloud/”S” Motorcars
This is simple: ALL screwdrivers are 5.5 inches long, and have a FLAT bulb wood handle. Where the EPW handles are an elongated, symetrical handle; these have a wider radius at the top---and have a flatter curve. They are less BULBOUS, and the RHD S/C II kit shows the driver placed flat.
Silver Shadow, “T”
These motorcars have the plastic FLAT toolkit; and have the English STANLEY “88” screwdriver, with the aluminum screw top and 3 bits. Draper supplied the girder, and BRITOOL supplied the DOE.
Silver Shadow II, Silver Wraith II, “T2”
These motor cars have 2 STANLEY black wood handle drivers. They are model “25’. One slotted and one Phillips is provided. This was the first of the BUMP kits, with bulbs in the lid. The DCE spanners are articulated BEDFORD.
The 1980 and onward
These chassis types utilize a black plastic handle STEADFAST, or HEYCO (German), with 3 bits. Gedore spanners were provided.
ENGLISH TYRE (TIRE) PRESSURE GAUGES
Yes this is a minor issue in the scope of things. I have noticed A LOT of confusion, and misinformation. I will attempt to clarify, explain and illucidate.
I may not be totally accurate on Pre-WWII gauges, but I think I can shed some light, and open myself up for correction, or amplification.
The gauges in this photo are placed in Chronological order.
On the far left is a late 1920’s to early 1930’s KISMET.
Notice the offset head. This one has a round body with a hex gauge. Some have round gauges. There is some discussion about which is correct for Bentley and Royce. I welcome more information.
.
Next is a later Kismet. Notice that the head is centered on the body, and there is a thumb notch. I believe this is from the early 1930’s to 1940
Next is the common Early Post-WWII hex shaped Kismet. Notice the round head and tyre valve tool. While close, this is NOT the proper tool for any Bentley or Royce.
Next is the common Early Post-WWII hex Kismet. Notice the thumb notch in the head and the absence of the tyre valve tool. While close, this is NOT the proper tool for any Bentley or Royce.
The above gauges are often represented by sellers and collectors, as being correct for Bentley or Royce. It is this common misrepresentation that has prompted me to create this BLOG!!!
The next gauge is the Hex Kismet, with thumb notch AND Tyre valve tool.
It is correct for ALL 1946 thru 1965 Bentley and Royce.
Next is the common Dunlop No. 6. Notice the pointed top with 4 facets. The valve is on the side. This gauge was used by many marques from 1966 thru 1975. This tool was used on the Royce Silver Shadow and Bentley “T1”.
On the far right is the Dunlop G6. The valve is on the very top, and has distinguishing grooves. This gauge was used on numerous British cars, including ALL 1975 and onward Bentley and Royce (Silver Shadow II, Silver Wraith II, “T2” etc).
Yes this is a minor issue in the scope of things. I have noticed A LOT of confusion, and misinformation. I will attempt to clarify, explain and illucidate.
I may not be totally accurate on Pre-WWII gauges, but I think I can shed some light, and open myself up for correction, or amplification.
The gauges in this photo are placed in Chronological order.
On the far left is a late 1920’s to early 1930’s KISMET.
Notice the offset head. This one has a round body with a hex gauge. Some have round gauges. There is some discussion about which is correct for Bentley and Royce. I welcome more information.
.
Next is a later Kismet. Notice that the head is centered on the body, and there is a thumb notch. I believe this is from the early 1930’s to 1940
Next is the common Early Post-WWII hex shaped Kismet. Notice the round head and tyre valve tool. While close, this is NOT the proper tool for any Bentley or Royce.
Next is the common Early Post-WWII hex Kismet. Notice the thumb notch in the head and the absence of the tyre valve tool. While close, this is NOT the proper tool for any Bentley or Royce.
The above gauges are often represented by sellers and collectors, as being correct for Bentley or Royce. It is this common misrepresentation that has prompted me to create this BLOG!!!
The next gauge is the Hex Kismet, with thumb notch AND Tyre valve tool.
It is correct for ALL 1946 thru 1965 Bentley and Royce.
Next is the common Dunlop No. 6. Notice the pointed top with 4 facets. The valve is on the side. This gauge was used by many marques from 1966 thru 1975. This tool was used on the Royce Silver Shadow and Bentley “T1”.
On the far right is the Dunlop G6. The valve is on the very top, and has distinguishing grooves. This gauge was used on numerous British cars, including ALL 1975 and onward Bentley and Royce (Silver Shadow II, Silver Wraith II, “T2” etc).
Rolls Royce and Bentley toolkits POST WAR (WWII--the last legally declared war, by the USA).
The 1946-1956 kits and other tools are explained on my blog
The 1956-1959 6 cyl cars:
Long rectangle rubber insert
GARRINGTONS adj Spanner
Exhaust valve tool
Delco ignition spanner
Multi-tool Garringtons or Britool forged, not cast 1.1 ounces (cast pieces are .9 OZ.)
Spark plug tool white cad, or raw steel
Sump spanner Britool or Garringtons
Wilkinsons SNUBNOSE pliers
Kismet tyre pressure gauge hex with thumb notch and tyre valve tool
2 COMBOS squared closed end Britool or Garringtons
Moore & Wright feeler gauge
Wood handle flat bulb screwdriver
Bulb set
1960-1962 single headlight V8
The delco spanner, the M & W; and exhaust valve tool are deleted There are SOME exceptions.
The RHD cars have a flatter insert with a BUMP for bulbs; and the driver lies flat
Later cars (the last 6), have King Dick Spanner
1963-1965 double HL cars
Feeler gauge is deleted
K.D is only adjustable spanner utilized
LHD cars have rubber bulb plug in the HL bulb spot. With seal beams, the H/L bulb is unnecessary. (some early owners complained about an open spot, therefore the rubber plug.)
1966-1975 SS and “T1"; early Corniche
Plain black flat plastic case
Dunlop No.6 pressure gauge
DRAPER 6 inch adj spanner
Long Britool DOE
Allen tool for The Lady
M & W 4 blade feeler
Stanley wood handle driver with screw top and 4 bits
Britool sumrad
Lucas ELEC pliers CHROME and with RR script.
Bulb complement—some without marker bulb
1975-1981 SS II, T2 and Early Camargue, later Corniche:
First black plastic BUMP kit, with bulbs in the lid, and logos on the lid.
2 wood handle Stanley "25" drivers, 1 slotted, 1 Phillips.
2 articulated Bedford Kestral spanners
3 Bedford DOE
Dunlop G 6 pressure gauge with the opening at the bulb top that has 4 rings
King Dick 6” monkey wrench type spanner, chrome
Lucas elec pliers, chrome—wider handle at joint than previous.
Tyre tread depth gauge
Allen hex, for The Lady
1981-1990, and onward Spur, Spirit, Camargue and same chassis type Bentley
The bump lid with bulbs
“V" shaped black pliers
Plastic tyre valve tool, white or black
Dunlop G6 pressure gauge
Tyre depth gauge
K.D. 6 inch monkey type adj. spanner, chrome
Black plastic driver with 3 bits
One small doe Bedford or Gedore
3 Combo spanners, Bedford or Gedore
Early kits had larger pliers, lengthwise in the insert. Later kits have smaller pliers along the bottom edge.
The 1946-1956 kits and other tools are explained on my blog
The 1956-1959 6 cyl cars:
Long rectangle rubber insert
GARRINGTONS adj Spanner
Exhaust valve tool
Delco ignition spanner
Multi-tool Garringtons or Britool forged, not cast 1.1 ounces (cast pieces are .9 OZ.)
Spark plug tool white cad, or raw steel
Sump spanner Britool or Garringtons
Wilkinsons SNUBNOSE pliers
Kismet tyre pressure gauge hex with thumb notch and tyre valve tool
2 COMBOS squared closed end Britool or Garringtons
Moore & Wright feeler gauge
Wood handle flat bulb screwdriver
Bulb set
1960-1962 single headlight V8
The delco spanner, the M & W; and exhaust valve tool are deleted There are SOME exceptions.
The RHD cars have a flatter insert with a BUMP for bulbs; and the driver lies flat
Later cars (the last 6), have King Dick Spanner
1963-1965 double HL cars
Feeler gauge is deleted
K.D is only adjustable spanner utilized
LHD cars have rubber bulb plug in the HL bulb spot. With seal beams, the H/L bulb is unnecessary. (some early owners complained about an open spot, therefore the rubber plug.)
1966-1975 SS and “T1"; early Corniche
Plain black flat plastic case
Dunlop No.6 pressure gauge
DRAPER 6 inch adj spanner
Long Britool DOE
Allen tool for The Lady
M & W 4 blade feeler
Stanley wood handle driver with screw top and 4 bits
Britool sumrad
Lucas ELEC pliers CHROME and with RR script.
Bulb complement—some without marker bulb
1975-1981 SS II, T2 and Early Camargue, later Corniche:
First black plastic BUMP kit, with bulbs in the lid, and logos on the lid.
2 wood handle Stanley "25" drivers, 1 slotted, 1 Phillips.
2 articulated Bedford Kestral spanners
3 Bedford DOE
Dunlop G 6 pressure gauge with the opening at the bulb top that has 4 rings
King Dick 6” monkey wrench type spanner, chrome
Lucas elec pliers, chrome—wider handle at joint than previous.
Tyre tread depth gauge
Allen hex, for The Lady
1981-1990, and onward Spur, Spirit, Camargue and same chassis type Bentley
The bump lid with bulbs
“V" shaped black pliers
Plastic tyre valve tool, white or black
Dunlop G6 pressure gauge
Tyre depth gauge
K.D. 6 inch monkey type adj. spanner, chrome
Black plastic driver with 3 bits
One small doe Bedford or Gedore
3 Combo spanners, Bedford or Gedore
Early kits had larger pliers, lengthwise in the insert. Later kits have smaller pliers along the bottom edge.
Prior to 1930, headlight lenses were generally flat, had the same left and right side pattern and very little prism. Twilite and Stabilite made attempts to create prisms. Also, most of the glass contained lead, and manganese, which reacted with UV rays to turn color; generally purple. By 1930 lenses began having optic prisms, and became convex. By 1933 headlight lenses had different left and right patterns to focus the projected light forward, and at a greater distance.
Tail lights, which had a red tint, also reacted to UV rays, but making the lens darker; which reduces visibility.
The function of headlights is to project and illuminate objects in front and to the side of the motorcar.
The function of the smaller (6-8 Watt) tail light, is to glow, to indicate the presence of the motorcar, to the following cars. Also, in that ever important braking event, the brake light glows. Light is NOT intended to be transmitted to the rear to illuminate following objects.
The headlights need to PROJECT light by the use of a 32 Watt bulb or greater, utilizing a focusing reflector, that transmits light, directed by a clear headlight lens with prisms. As the silver reflector ages, it oxidizes, losing efficiency.
I have seen a few people CHROME plate reflectors. Chrome actually absorbs light, not reflect it.
By 1940, the separate bulb/reflector/lens system was replaced by the sealed beam unit. Just a couple of marques and some trucks retained the non-sealed beam system into the 1940's.
Tail lights, which had a red tint, also reacted to UV rays, but making the lens darker; which reduces visibility.
The function of headlights is to project and illuminate objects in front and to the side of the motorcar.
The function of the smaller (6-8 Watt) tail light, is to glow, to indicate the presence of the motorcar, to the following cars. Also, in that ever important braking event, the brake light glows. Light is NOT intended to be transmitted to the rear to illuminate following objects.
The headlights need to PROJECT light by the use of a 32 Watt bulb or greater, utilizing a focusing reflector, that transmits light, directed by a clear headlight lens with prisms. As the silver reflector ages, it oxidizes, losing efficiency.
I have seen a few people CHROME plate reflectors. Chrome actually absorbs light, not reflect it.
By 1940, the separate bulb/reflector/lens system was replaced by the sealed beam unit. Just a couple of marques and some trucks retained the non-sealed beam system into the 1940's.
After 55 years of very active car collecting--much to the chagrin of my parents; I have learned a few things I would like to share.
1. Never put any tool away until the repair project is OVER. I have often cleaned a tool, and put it away, only to retrieve it again.
2. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS put out blankets, and towels over the bumpers and fenders when removing pre-WWII lenses. NEVER carry them over ANY hard surface. Lenses are one of the few parts that are difficult to find, and almost impossible to reproduce. Also WASH your hands prior any parts removal, especially lenses!! GO slow. Have a box handy lined with a TOWEL!!!
3. USE PCL or CLP from Break-Free Products, instead of wd40. PCL FOAMS, and tends to stay, and penetrate. It is usually available in gun stores. The company has missed a great opportunity. They focus on guns--instead of cars. EVEN here in Southern California we have more cars than guns. For 20 years I have tried to get Break-Free to enhance their strategy. I should have bought this division when they moved to Florida years ago. PCL is handy also, around the house, on pesky plumbing fittings. DO not wait--make a note. Search for some NOW, well worth the $12. Send me a Thank You note.
4. Tail lights--for ALL of us with collector cars; Pre-WWII thru the 60's, brake and tail lights are our only protection from SUVS, rice rockets, and tail-gaters with disc brakes. These drivers are oblivious to 6 volts or drum brakes. Driving habits have changed drastically in the last 15 years. Tail lights are taken for granted. They, along with the fuel system and brakes, are the most critical systems. Check the driving lights at night. Check the brake lights from various distances. I marvel at the Rolls Royce and Bentleys from 1956-65, that have cracked, faded or fogged tail lenses. UNBELIEVABLE!!! I get all kinds of stupid responses, that I will spare you. Just look at the size of the lenses, and think of the calamity that is caused if the driver behind you does not see you brake!!! Another swell example are the pre-1934 Pierce-Arrow and Packards.
5. Any repair project: Think, plan, organize. Acquire all of the parts and tools first. Anticipate: will solvent be needed? Will penetrant (PCL) be needed? NOW, when I do any project on my cars, or around the house; I make a list and plan. I review manuals or instruction sheets. My latest projects seem to go faster, with less frustration.
6. When doing a repair that entails more than 1 part: take a photo, or 5. I have given up trying to rely on my memory. If it is a complex rebuild or one that will span days, make notes and bag parts in clear plastic bags, so the re-assembly can be done accurately and efficiently.
1. Never put any tool away until the repair project is OVER. I have often cleaned a tool, and put it away, only to retrieve it again.
2. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS put out blankets, and towels over the bumpers and fenders when removing pre-WWII lenses. NEVER carry them over ANY hard surface. Lenses are one of the few parts that are difficult to find, and almost impossible to reproduce. Also WASH your hands prior any parts removal, especially lenses!! GO slow. Have a box handy lined with a TOWEL!!!
3. USE PCL or CLP from Break-Free Products, instead of wd40. PCL FOAMS, and tends to stay, and penetrate. It is usually available in gun stores. The company has missed a great opportunity. They focus on guns--instead of cars. EVEN here in Southern California we have more cars than guns. For 20 years I have tried to get Break-Free to enhance their strategy. I should have bought this division when they moved to Florida years ago. PCL is handy also, around the house, on pesky plumbing fittings. DO not wait--make a note. Search for some NOW, well worth the $12. Send me a Thank You note.
4. Tail lights--for ALL of us with collector cars; Pre-WWII thru the 60's, brake and tail lights are our only protection from SUVS, rice rockets, and tail-gaters with disc brakes. These drivers are oblivious to 6 volts or drum brakes. Driving habits have changed drastically in the last 15 years. Tail lights are taken for granted. They, along with the fuel system and brakes, are the most critical systems. Check the driving lights at night. Check the brake lights from various distances. I marvel at the Rolls Royce and Bentleys from 1956-65, that have cracked, faded or fogged tail lenses. UNBELIEVABLE!!! I get all kinds of stupid responses, that I will spare you. Just look at the size of the lenses, and think of the calamity that is caused if the driver behind you does not see you brake!!! Another swell example are the pre-1934 Pierce-Arrow and Packards.
5. Any repair project: Think, plan, organize. Acquire all of the parts and tools first. Anticipate: will solvent be needed? Will penetrant (PCL) be needed? NOW, when I do any project on my cars, or around the house; I make a list and plan. I review manuals or instruction sheets. My latest projects seem to go faster, with less frustration.
6. When doing a repair that entails more than 1 part: take a photo, or 5. I have given up trying to rely on my memory. If it is a complex rebuild or one that will span days, make notes and bag parts in clear plastic bags, so the re-assembly can be done accurately and efficiently.
I got my first car when I was 11 (a wrecked, rolled and burned 1955 Porsche Speedster). I spent almost 5 years restoring it. I had to learn German to understand the manuals. This was at the very beginning of the Porsche "culture" in Southern California. I learned alot--
1. ALWAYS use the proper tool. If it is not handy, go get it or wait.
2. ALWAYS have a designated spot for tools and spares. Nothing is more frustrating than making a project of locating an item, when in the middle of the main repair project. ALWAYS clean the tool BEFORE returning it to its proper place.
3. Always use the proper parts. Too many owners of Rolls Royce, Porsche or Bentley have sought cheaper parts, only to suffer a larger calamity down the road. A good example are rubber seals. There are dozens of rubber compounds: nitriles, vitons, silicones etc. Each is designed and maufactured for specific applications, including heat, exposure to fluids, torque, and compression. I learned alot while I was building data centers, and developing computer systems for Parker Seal in the early 1970's.
4. Quality cars are built to last, and to be repaired. They must be properly maintained. Another example is Rolls Royce. Some owners spent alot of money on the purchase, and just assumed they would last. Therefore maintenance was ignored, or corners were cut. I hear almost daily from car owners, whose cars have deteriorated, far beyond what is necessary. This was caused by poor maintenance, the use of improper parts and fluids. A Silver Shadow can have the brake/leveling system destroyed, by the use of the wrong fuid; resulting in an $8,000 brake job.
5. If you are going to acquire a collector car, JOIN the club BEFORE purchase. Learn about the true idiosyncracies, performance, and costs of that model. The ENTHUSIASTS belong to clubs, and are most knowledgeable. Also, their cars tend to be in better condition; and make better acquisitions.
6. Manuals: a necessary investment that cannot be overstated. Learn about the motorcar, even if you do not do repairs. To become involved and knowledgeable, will encourage the owner to perform more tasks, and will be vital "insurance" when a repair is hired out. The manuals are only worthwile if actually read and used.
1. ALWAYS use the proper tool. If it is not handy, go get it or wait.
2. ALWAYS have a designated spot for tools and spares. Nothing is more frustrating than making a project of locating an item, when in the middle of the main repair project. ALWAYS clean the tool BEFORE returning it to its proper place.
3. Always use the proper parts. Too many owners of Rolls Royce, Porsche or Bentley have sought cheaper parts, only to suffer a larger calamity down the road. A good example are rubber seals. There are dozens of rubber compounds: nitriles, vitons, silicones etc. Each is designed and maufactured for specific applications, including heat, exposure to fluids, torque, and compression. I learned alot while I was building data centers, and developing computer systems for Parker Seal in the early 1970's.
4. Quality cars are built to last, and to be repaired. They must be properly maintained. Another example is Rolls Royce. Some owners spent alot of money on the purchase, and just assumed they would last. Therefore maintenance was ignored, or corners were cut. I hear almost daily from car owners, whose cars have deteriorated, far beyond what is necessary. This was caused by poor maintenance, the use of improper parts and fluids. A Silver Shadow can have the brake/leveling system destroyed, by the use of the wrong fuid; resulting in an $8,000 brake job.
5. If you are going to acquire a collector car, JOIN the club BEFORE purchase. Learn about the true idiosyncracies, performance, and costs of that model. The ENTHUSIASTS belong to clubs, and are most knowledgeable. Also, their cars tend to be in better condition; and make better acquisitions.
6. Manuals: a necessary investment that cannot be overstated. Learn about the motorcar, even if you do not do repairs. To become involved and knowledgeable, will encourage the owner to perform more tasks, and will be vital "insurance" when a repair is hired out. The manuals are only worthwile if actually read and used.
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