The little article about motor oil for our classics, are extending week by week. This week both feedback from Comma and Royal Purple has been added, adding to feedback from Statiol, Castrol and Penrite. A big thanks to you that took the time and effort to give me your elaborate feedback. Very much appreciated! This gives us as consumers valuable information and makes it easier to take care of our old engines.
You find the updated article here:
http://classic-cars-codex.blogspot.no/2012/08/classic-car-motor-oils.html
Best regards
Morten
|
Lego i mer avansert utførelse - ingeniørkunst. |
Her er det en og annen modell å velge i |
Fantastiske brannbiler! |
Gråtass var populær! |
Nok en flott modellbil fra messen. |
Morten
American Bantam 1939 |
Funny looking car :)
Morten
Can I get the Chrome shine back, please?
How to protect the car's chrome when storing
Earlier I've tried out a few chrome polished, which I applied to the car's bumpers and chrome details in the start of the season and before winter storage (here in Norway the winter is long and cold with snow and salt on the roads - no climate for running a classic car).Chrome polish is all good, but I still could see the chrome degrading. Another tip, which seem very good and has been tested over many years, was applying diesel oil/fuel (light spray) on the chrome before winter. This I have seen done on a Mustang for many years - the chrome is still perfect.
I contacted a well known chroming / re-chroming company, to get some tips on how to keep the chrome well protected. Their best tip was to apply Vaseline (without acid!) on the chrome before winter. This they have tested on chrome in salty/sea side environment (boats etc), with good results over time. For me both this tips works fine - the diesel is a bit easier to clean up in the spring time, though. I also got a lot of other tips, but these two I found best - no expencive, special stuff needed.
So the best tips would be:
- Light spray of Diesel oil/fuel
- Vaseline (without acid)
- In-season, chrome polish (wouldn't use it to often)
Vaseline - acid free |
How to get the shine back in old chrome
As for getting the shine back in older chrome, I've tested a few products. First of all, don't rub and polish chrome that is bright and perfect, too often. There is always a chance of damaging good chrome - so don't overdo it. Talking by experience.I tried a product from Autosol called Kromglans - they advertice with cleaning away rust and getting the shine back, especially on old chrome. I tried it on a piece of older chrome with some visible corrosion and bubbles, and a piece of fairly new chrome. First - I'm not using it on mint chrome anymore - it got clean, but some light wear could be seen. To get the compund cleaned away after applied, some rubbing has to be done, which could lead to visible wear.
On the old chrome - I could see the chrome being cleaned, or at least more shiny, but I couldn't see any change in the corrosion areas. I am not convinced really, I have seen the similar effect of earlier tested compinds/polishes. One element I have no idea of, is to what degree any of these products will have a negative impact on the chrome over time. Kromglans has done well in tests.
If you have really tough spots/problem areas, then you can use steel wool (meant for chrome polish, very fine grades).
Chrome before applying Kromglans |
Same piece after Kromglans treatment - click to enlarge |
Products mentioned
Kromglans from Autosol: https://autosol.com/shop/category/auto-care/
More about chrome polishes: http://www.squidoo.com/chromepolish
Steel wool: http://www.westernwooddoctor.com/steelwool.htm
I find this site interessting regarding re-chroming:
http://www.rechromebumper.com/process.cfm
Something was cleaned away between the pictures above. |
The article will be updated with new information, if new ideas/suggestions comes in.
Morten
1973 Triumph TR6 PI - Manual with overdrive, Left hand drive
This TR6 I have put a lot of heart and time in getting in the state it is today. It is generally not so important to keep the car to the original spec, many upgrades are done, however the look I try to keep like the original.
Most recent picture - exhibition in Stavern (click to enlarge) |
First time registered: April 30th, 1973
Swedish number plate, 1989-2009: PAB 245
First time registered in Norway: May 7th, 2010 (LY 68367)
Chassis no: CF7437UO
Engine: MH108HE / 6 cyl 2.5 Liter 150+ hp
Gear box: 4 speed w J-type Overdrive on 3rd and 4th.
Fuel delivery: Bosch fuel pump and Metering unit, Injection
Alternator: 22D
Color: Sapphire Blue
Interior: Black
Mileage: about 134’ km. Not confirmed.
GENERAL FOR THE TR6 (73)
Dimensions: 3.95 m (length), 1.55 m (width), 1.27 m (height).
Weight (dry): 1122 kg.
Wheelbase: 2.235 m
Engine capacity: 4,25 liters (refill) – 5,1 L total.
Manual gearbox w J-overd. capacity: 1,5 L
Rear axle: 1,27 L
Cooling system (inc heater): 6,2 L.
Swedish number plate, 1989-2009: PAB 245
First time registered in Norway: May 7th, 2010 (LY 68367)
Chassis no: CF7437UO
Engine: MH108HE / 6 cyl 2.5 Liter 150+ hp
Gear box: 4 speed w J-type Overdrive on 3rd and 4th.
Fuel delivery: Bosch fuel pump and Metering unit, Injection
Alternator: 22D
Color: Sapphire Blue
Interior: Black
Mileage: about 134’ km. Not confirmed.
GENERAL FOR THE TR6 (73)
Dimensions: 3.95 m (length), 1.55 m (width), 1.27 m (height).
Weight (dry): 1122 kg.
Wheelbase: 2.235 m
Engine capacity: 4,25 liters (refill) – 5,1 L total.
Manual gearbox w J-overd. capacity: 1,5 L
Rear axle: 1,27 L
Cooling system (inc heater): 6,2 L.
I just love these lines - simple but beautiful! |
ABOUT MY CAR
This is originally a US spec ’73 car, but converted to PI spec early ‘80s. The engine is a ’71 2.5 PI engine, the rather rare engine prefix tells that this was an engine exported for the Swedish marked. A lot of things have been changed and upgraded in my ownership (see work done list), but the car has been a nice drive all along. The fairly new original exterior color, sapphire blue, is matched with a white hood. The wheels are original iron rims, sand blasted recently, with US style chrome sides. The metering unit and distributor have been on visit to England for a fix-up, new fuel and brake pipes have been fitted, as well as new fuel pump and filter and also aluminum petrol tank. The exhaust system is a new s/s Phoenix big bore system (what a sound!).
A roll bar has been fitted some time ago, and a transparent Lexan piece has been fitted in/on the roll bar as a protection from back draft. The suspension has Spax shocks and new springs, slightly lowered.
I have tried a couple of different steering wheels, and a black leathered Tourist Trophy 14” is my choice. The steering rack is new, and responds very nice. The instruments, following the ’73 layout with needles pointing upwards and chrome finish – all very nice – looks quite good in the new dashboard in matt, close to original finish.
Carpets and interior original all black, is recently changed to beige, and are matching the black seats quite good. Both wind screen and side glass are new.
OWNER HISTORY
- US owner(s) - unknown pre-Sweden
- Mr. Winell, Sweden 1989-Aug 21st 2009.
- Mr. Høyseth, Sandefjord area, 2009 ->
Picture taken with the previous steering wheel, 15" Tourist Trophy, nice but to big. Before I changed to beige carpets. Note the dashboard - from my point of view, one of the most beautiful finishes. |
MODIFICATIONS FROM ORIGINAL
- Engine – PI engine fitted in US car, metering unit
- Bosch fuel pump and filter
- Spax shacks
- Springs, slightly lowered
- Headlight electronics
- Cd player
- Beige carpets
- Upgraded steering rack
- Aluminum petrol tank
- Speedometer changed to km/t, rather than mph
- New bumpers front/back. Rear bumper fitted with bumper mounted plate lamp (not correct on ’73)
- Exhaust – Phoenix s/s performance manifold and big bore system
- Roller bar w/Lexan draft protection
- New dashboard and hazard switch
- Battery cut-off switch inside the car
- Emergency bonnet release switch
- Special hood
- Steering wheel – Tourist Trophy black leather
- KN filter
- Revotec electronic cooling fan
|
WORK DONE LATELY (all 2012)
- Welded inner wheel arcs, rear, and new back B-posts.
- Paint job – original color
- New fuel lines – all new hoses, new petrol tank, new fuel filter and Bosch pump, new PRV.
- Chassis waxed – inspected floors.
- New carpets, new under-felt and seat mountings
- New side windows and door waxed inside. Sound deadening.
RECENT EVENT HISTORY
- Exhibition, Stavern Sept 2012
- Spiralløpet, Drammen 2011
- Grevlingløpet, Sandefjord 2011
- Gladløpet, Stavern 2011
WORK TO BE DONE
- Straight up the panel gap door/rear wing, the chassis is sound, but a bit lazy.
- Mont the new hood
- Redo some areas not so nice from the initial paint job
- Fit Lumenition optic ignition system
- Rattling noise when door closes
From summer 2012 - I have not yet mounted the hood after repaint. |
To be continued...
Morten
Morten
1962 Jaguar Mk2 3.8L Manual with overdrive, Left hand drive
A car this age has a lot of story to tell, and as the curious person I am, I'll try to get collect as much historic data about this particular car as possible, and update this page accordingly.
My Jaguar - Picture taken in Larvik, Norway 2012 |
First time registered: June 26th, 1962 in Oslo, Norway.
Original license plate A-12628 - changed to 0-308 .
Chassis no: 221138DN
Engine: LC 2116-8 / 3.8L 6 cyl 220 HP
Gear box: GBN 6203JS O/ Moss 4 speed w Overdrive Synch on 2nd,3rdand 4th.
Carburetors: 2 x S.U. H.D.6
Body no: S020535
Color: Old English White
Interior: Red
Mileage: about 134’ km. Not confirmed.
GENERAL FOR THE MK2
Dimensions: 4.591 m (length), 1.695 m (width), 1.460 m (height).
Weight (dry): 1391 kg.
Turning circle: 10.21 m
Ground clearance: 178 mm
Wheelbase: 2.727 m
Petrol tank: 54,5 liters
Engine capacity: 6,25 liters (refill) – 7,5 liters total.
Manual gearbox w overd. capacity: 2,25 liters(L). (Automatic: 8,5 L. Manual no overdrive: 1,5 L)
Rear axle: 1,5 L
Cooling system (inc heater): 12,5 L.
Original license plate A-12628 - changed to 0-308 .
Chassis no: 221138DN
Engine: LC 2116-8 / 3.8L 6 cyl 220 HP
Gear box: GBN 6203JS O/ Moss 4 speed w Overdrive Synch on 2nd,3rdand 4th.
Carburetors: 2 x S.U. H.D.6
Body no: S020535
Color: Old English White
Interior: Red
Mileage: about 134’ km. Not confirmed.
GENERAL FOR THE MK2
Dimensions: 4.591 m (length), 1.695 m (width), 1.460 m (height).
Weight (dry): 1391 kg.
Turning circle: 10.21 m
Ground clearance: 178 mm
Wheelbase: 2.727 m
Petrol tank: 54,5 liters
Engine capacity: 6,25 liters (refill) – 7,5 liters total.
Manual gearbox w overd. capacity: 2,25 liters(L). (Automatic: 8,5 L. Manual no overdrive: 1,5 L)
Rear axle: 1,5 L
Cooling system (inc heater): 12,5 L.
Interior - all stickers are now removed, gear lever changed. |
ABOUT MY CAR
Original car, matching numbers. The red interior leather has the right patina, from 1962. The interior wood work is intact and nice, but needs some attention. It has chrome wire wheels, with white side tires. It has the correct instruments (all Smiths except from the Lucas Amp meter), all working except the clock. The chassis and body is straight and healthy – no rust is found.
It has got the Moss box, with non-synchro first gear – a bit heavy and slow, but charming. The overdrive makes it a very good cruiser.
The engine is running smooth, and the 3.8 L responds nicely to any initiative. Giving it a faster/improved gear box would be no mistake, but this car will keep t original as long as I have it.
The chrome is good all around. The round side mirrors are mounted on the doors, and antenna is on the left, front wing. The original radio does not work, but looks great.
Probably repainted in original color sometime in the 80’s.
Seats - the seat belts are now changed. |
OWNER HISTORY
- Mr. Strøm Oslo area 1962 – 1972 (or ’70).
- Mr. Nordin Bergen area 1972 (or ’70) - 1981.
- Mr. Homlen Skien area 1981 - 1992.
- Mr. Lie Bergen area 1992 - 2010.
- Mr. Borhaven Oslo area 2010-2012.
- Mr. Høyseth, Sandefjord area, 2012 ->
MODIFICATIONS FROM ORIGINAL
- One switch is added left of the central speaker. Functionality unknown.
- Seat belts added 2012 (3p). Red belts, 2 in front, 2 in back, from sngbarrat.co.uk. Chrome buckles with Jaguar on them.
- The fuel filter (glass) is removed from the glass container under the hood, and put externally.
- The steering wheel seems to be from a MkI or similar, cross-style.
Engine - 3.8 L |
WORK DONE LATELY (all 2012)
- Changed the speedometer wire
- Fixed fuel leak under the hood, at the fuel filter
- Oil change engine, gear oil and hypoid oil in the back
- Starter motor removed, overhauled and put back
- Fixed the map lamp wiring
- New mirror for the side mirror.
- New rear indicator lamp/plastic, rear
- New gear lever leather
Original radio - but currently not working. |
RECENT EVENT HISTORY
- Exhibition, Stavern Sept 2012
- Vinterbroløpet Aug 2012
- Grevlingløpet Aug 2012
- Kongsbergknekken Aug 2012
- Museumsløpet June 2012
- Stokke meet-up May 2012
Back door window - the wood works need some attention, but still beautiful |
WORK TO BE DONE
- New exhaust system, original style, but stainless steel
- New oil seal
- Leather interior makeover, still the original from ’62 looking good with perfect patina.
- Wood, wish to carefully give new life to the wood-works inside. The finish is not cracked, and need some love and care.
- Rear suspension leaf springs needs attention. The car looks low/heavy at the rear end.
- When the time comes – a paint job might be on the to-do.
RESOURCES AND LINKS
To be continued...
Morten
Morten
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