English Tyre Pressure Gauges

ENGLISH TYRE (TIRE) PRESSURE GAUGES

Yes this is a minor issue in the scope of things. I have noticed A LOT of confusion, and misinformation. I will attempt to clarify, explain and illucidate.
I may not be totally accurate on Pre-WWII gauges, but I think I can shed some light, and open myself up for correction, or amplification.
The gauges in this photo are placed in Chronological order.
On the far left is a late 1920’s to early 1930’s KISMET.
Notice the offset head. This one has a round body with a hex gauge. Some have round gauges. There is some discussion about which is correct for Bentley and Royce. I welcome more information.
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Next is a later Kismet. Notice that the head is centered on the body, and there is a thumb notch. I believe this is from the early 1930’s to 1940

Next is the common Early Post-WWII hex shaped Kismet. Notice the round head and tyre valve tool. While close, this is NOT the proper tool for any Bentley or Royce.

Next is the common Early Post-WWII hex Kismet. Notice the thumb notch in the head and the absence of the tyre valve tool. While close, this is NOT the proper tool for any Bentley or Royce.

The above gauges are often represented by sellers and collectors, as being correct for Bentley or Royce. It is this common misrepresentation that has prompted me to create this BLOG!!!

The next gauge is the Hex Kismet, with thumb notch AND Tyre valve tool.
It is correct for ALL 1946 thru 1965 Bentley and Royce.

Next is the common Dunlop No. 6. Notice the pointed top with 4 facets. The valve is on the side. This gauge was used by many marques from 1966 thru 1975. This tool was used on the Royce Silver Shadow and Bentley “T1”.

On the far right is the Dunlop G6. The valve is on the very top, and has distinguishing grooves. This gauge was used on numerous British cars, including ALL 1975 and onward Bentley and Royce (Silver Shadow II, Silver Wraith II, “T2” etc).

Rolls Royce and Bentley tools--1956 and onward

Rolls Royce and Bentley toolkits POST WAR (WWII--the last legally declared war, by the USA).

The 1946-1956 kits and other tools are explained on my blog

The 1956-1959 6 cyl cars:
Long rectangle rubber insert
GARRINGTONS adj Spanner
Exhaust valve tool
Delco ignition spanner
Multi-tool Garringtons or Britool forged, not cast 1.1 ounces (cast pieces are .9 OZ.)
Spark plug tool white cad, or raw steel
Sump spanner Britool or Garringtons
Wilkinsons SNUBNOSE pliers
Kismet tyre pressure gauge hex with thumb notch and tyre valve tool
2 COMBOS squared closed end Britool or Garringtons
Moore & Wright feeler gauge
Wood handle flat bulb screwdriver
Bulb set

1960-1962 single headlight V8
The delco spanner, the M & W; and exhaust valve tool are deleted  There are SOME exceptions.
The RHD cars have a flatter insert with a BUMP for bulbs; and the driver lies flat
Later cars (the last 6), have King Dick Spanner

1963-1965 double HL cars
Feeler gauge is deleted
K.D is only adjustable spanner utilized
LHD cars have rubber bulb plug in the HL bulb spot. With seal beams, the  H/L bulb is unnecessary. (some early owners complained about an open spot, therefore the rubber plug.)

1966-1975 SS and “T1"; early Corniche
Plain black flat plastic case
Dunlop No.6 pressure gauge
DRAPER 6 inch adj spanner
Long Britool DOE
Allen tool for The Lady
M & W 4 blade feeler
Stanley wood handle driver with screw top and 4 bits
Britool sumrad
Lucas ELEC pliers CHROME and with RR script.
Bulb complement—some without marker bulb

1975-1981 SS II, T2 and Early Camargue, later Corniche:
First black plastic BUMP kit, with bulbs in the lid, and logos on the lid.
2 wood handle Stanley "25" drivers, 1 slotted, 1 Phillips.
2 articulated Bedford Kestral spanners
3 Bedford DOE
Dunlop G 6 pressure gauge with the opening at the bulb top that has 4 rings
King Dick 6” monkey wrench type spanner, chrome
Lucas elec pliers, chrome—wider handle at joint than previous.
Tyre tread depth gauge
Allen hex, for The Lady


1981-1990, and onward Spur, Spirit, Camargue and same chassis type Bentley
The bump lid with bulbs
“V" shaped black pliers
Plastic tyre valve tool, white or black
Dunlop G6 pressure gauge
Tyre depth gauge
K.D. 6 inch monkey type adj. spanner, chrome
Black plastic driver with 3 bits
One small doe Bedford or Gedore
3 Combo spanners, Bedford or Gedore

Early kits had larger pliers, lengthwise in the insert. Later kits have smaller pliers along the bottom edge.

PRE-WWII GLASS LENS TRIVIA

Prior to 1930, headlight lenses were generally flat, had the same left and right side pattern and very little prism. Twilite and Stabilite made attempts to create prisms. Also, most of the glass contained lead, and manganese, which reacted with UV rays to turn color; generally purple. By 1930 lenses began having optic prisms, and became convex. By 1933 headlight lenses had different left and right patterns to focus the projected light forward, and at a greater distance.

Tail lights, which had a red tint, also reacted to UV rays, but making the lens darker; which reduces visibility.
The function of headlights is to project and illuminate objects in front and to the side of the motorcar.
The function of the smaller (6-8 Watt) tail light, is to glow, to indicate the presence of the motorcar, to the following cars. Also, in that ever important braking event, the brake light glows. Light is NOT intended to be transmitted to the rear to illuminate following objects.

The headlights need to PROJECT light by the use of a 32 Watt bulb or greater, utilizing a focusing reflector, that transmits light, directed by a clear headlight lens with prisms. As the silver reflector ages, it oxidizes, losing efficiency.

I have seen a few people CHROME plate reflectors. Chrome actually absorbs light, not reflect it.
By 1940, the separate bulb/reflector/lens system was replaced by the sealed beam unit. Just a couple of marques and some trucks retained the non-sealed beam system into the 1940's.

MORE LESSONS

After 55 years of very active car collecting--much to the chagrin of my parents; I have learned a few things I would like to share.
1. Never put any tool away until the repair project is OVER. I have often cleaned a tool, and put it away, only to retrieve it again.
2. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS put out blankets, and towels over the bumpers and fenders when removing pre-WWII lenses. NEVER carry them over ANY hard surface. Lenses are one of the few parts that are difficult to find,  and almost impossible to reproduce. Also WASH your hands prior any parts  removal, especially lenses!! GO slow. Have a box handy lined with a TOWEL!!!
3. USE PCL or CLP from Break-Free Products, instead of wd40. PCL FOAMS, and tends to stay, and penetrate. It is usually available in gun stores. The company has missed a great opportunity. They focus on guns--instead of cars. EVEN here in Southern California we have more cars than guns. For 20 years I have tried to get Break-Free to enhance their strategy. I should have bought this division when they moved to Florida years ago. PCL is handy also, around the house, on pesky plumbing fittings. DO not wait--make a note. Search for some NOW, well worth the $12. Send me a Thank You note.
4. Tail lights--for ALL of us with collector cars; Pre-WWII thru the 60's, brake and tail lights are our only protection from SUVS, rice rockets, and tail-gaters with disc brakes. These drivers are oblivious to 6 volts or drum brakes. Driving habits have changed drastically in the last 15 years. Tail lights are taken for granted. They, along with the fuel system and brakes, are the most critical systems. Check the driving lights at night. Check the brake lights from various distances. I marvel at the Rolls Royce and Bentleys from 1956-65, that have cracked, faded or fogged tail lenses. UNBELIEVABLE!!! I get all kinds of stupid responses, that I will spare you. Just look at the size of the lenses, and think of the calamity that is caused if the driver behind you does not see you brake!!! Another swell example are the pre-1934 Pierce-Arrow and Packards.
5. Any repair project: Think, plan, organize. Acquire all of the parts and tools first. Anticipate: will solvent be needed? Will penetrant (PCL) be needed? NOW, when I do any project on my cars, or around the house; I make a list and plan. I review manuals or instruction sheets. My latest projects seem to go faster, with less frustration.
6. When doing a repair that entails more than 1 part: take a photo, or 5. I have given up trying to rely on my memory. If it is a complex rebuild or one that will span days, make notes and bag parts in clear plastic bags, so the re-assembly can be done accurately and efficiently.

Car lessons learned

I got my first car when I was 11 (a wrecked, rolled and burned 1955 Porsche Speedster). I spent almost 5 years restoring it. I had to learn German to understand the manuals. This was at the very beginning of the Porsche "culture" in Southern California. I learned alot--
1. ALWAYS use the proper tool. If it is not handy, go get it or wait.
2. ALWAYS have a designated spot for tools and spares. Nothing is more frustrating than making a project of locating an item, when in the middle of the main repair project. ALWAYS clean the tool BEFORE returning it to its proper place.
3. Always use the proper parts. Too many owners of Rolls Royce, Porsche or Bentley have sought cheaper parts, only to suffer a larger calamity down the road. A good example are rubber seals. There are dozens of rubber compounds: nitriles, vitons, silicones etc. Each is designed and maufactured for specific applications, including heat, exposure to fluids, torque, and compression. I learned alot while I was building data centers, and developing computer systems for Parker Seal in the early 1970's.
4. Quality cars are built to last, and to be repaired. They must be properly maintained. Another example is Rolls Royce. Some owners spent alot of money on the purchase, and just assumed they would last. Therefore maintenance was ignored, or corners were cut. I hear almost daily from car owners, whose cars have deteriorated, far beyond what is necessary. This was caused by poor maintenance, the use of improper parts and fluids. A Silver Shadow can have the brake/leveling system destroyed, by the use of the wrong fuid; resulting in an $8,000 brake job.
5. If you are going to acquire a collector car, JOIN the club BEFORE purchase. Learn about the true idiosyncracies, performance, and costs of that model. The ENTHUSIASTS belong to clubs, and are most knowledgeable. Also, their cars tend to be in better condition; and make better acquisitions.
6. Manuals: a necessary investment that cannot be overstated. Learn about the motorcar, even if you do not do repairs. To become involved and knowledgeable, will encourage the owner to perform more tasks, and will be vital "insurance" when a repair is hired out. The manuals are only worthwile if actually read and used.

Old Car and Classic Car Touring

I have been a car collector for 56 years, as of 2013, since I was 11. I always enjoyed the DRIVING of my cars, and the associated experiences. When I was 16, I fondly remember driving South on Harbor Blvd. or Beach Blvd. to go the beach, in Southern California. I remember stopping along the journey and getting a GREAT homemade burrito or a fantastic hamburger at a little place that had only one location. I also remember so well, leaving my employer, Disneyland (it was never a job or work), and driving to the South East corner of Harbor and Ball, to join other car collectors, and where I had THE BEST banana malt.

Fast forward to the 1970's when I was almost an adult, and had acquired a "collector car". Now car clubs existed without the aluminum plaques in the rear window. I joined CCCA, RROC, and PCA. TOURING became common. A day or weekend trip became routine, with folks that shared the same passion for "our" marque. Picnics became a time to enjoy simple food, each other, and discuss the minutiae of our marque.

By the late 70's I had developed a quirk: I would always dress in the same color, and same period as the car I was driving. I have photos to prove it!! If I changed cars-I changed clothes. Then I created a special picnic basket, for each car, consistent with the color and period. Some folks kidded me, and others, I think envied the STYLE. There was just one dilemma: the choice in cuisine. Kentucky fried chicken, El Pollo Loco, anything that required cold was relegated to the cheap styrafoam cooler. Can you relate to all of this? So, I was personally frustrated that I had UNIQUE cars, on special journeys, and was eating worse than when I was at home. SOMETHING is wrong!!

NOW I have discovered DINING, on my tours, my travels and even in my living room. I have discovered flavored oils; grapeseed and olive; as well as balsamic vinegar. Great with bread as an appetizer. The vinegars are great drizzled over watermelon or other fruits. Then there are pestos and tapenades. Super to enhance a tuna sandwich, pasta, or any chicken dish. The flavored salts and peppers are a must. The flavors explode on raw tomatoes. I found a complete selection of these gourmet quality products at The Posh Gourmet . They are all touring friendly. Additionally I found numerous recipes that will enhance a tour, as well as a special evening at home.

Lastly the accessories. I found a personal disconnect, driving my Pierce-Arrow, Cadillac, Royce, and having the cheap, common cooler. The Posh Gourmet has a fine selection of quality, insulated coolers with appropriate utensils for any picnic or tour, complete with decorative wine bottle stoppers and real cloth napkins.

Now I have it all: The motorcar, the long-time personal relationships, the accessories consistent with the event, including sartorial presence, and to really enhance the experience; exquisite dining accessories and cuisine. Along with the True Love of my life, Sandie, How could things be better?

The Pierce Arrow Dinner Plate Saga

In about 1992 I responded to an ad from a chap in Florida who had 6 Pierce dinner plates for sale. I called him. He wanted to sell me two; not 6; He required a certified check. He told me he was a distant relative of one of the Pierce Family. I told him that I would take all six. He told me that if he sold me six; he would not have enough for anyone else. He had not heard of PAS; and was not a member. I explained that I could buy them, and make them available to PAS; members at same $$. He said that Pierce had gone bankrupt; by trusting people. I replied that it was just a little more complicated than that; and that CAR owners; like me; were the solution; NOT the cause of the failure. We went around and around. He insisted on a certified check; I told him I would send a personal check--and he could wait until it cleared. He said that he did not know me; and could not trust me. He went on about how his ancestors had gotten taken. Anyhow, I did not get the plates. SURPRISE!!! At our monthly local PAS lunch; I recounted the story. Hilda Blonder said "Roy, why don't you make them". I mentioned that I knew zip about this process. She said that I could probably find somebody to do it. So I started a journey.
After Hilda Suggested I do the dinnerplates--I looked into it: a minimum of green unfired plates is 120.! I would have to design the logo ("8" and "12""), and have special porcelain decals made.
Then I would have to apply the decals. I then decided to that I would have to apply a gold edge. So I had to make a precision turntable, and learn and practice a 3mm application of a liquid gold, using a special phenolic applicator; to the edge of the plate. I actually sat down on my kitchen floor; and applied the gold. I think it took 20 hours. Then I had to have them fired. I could not find anybody to fire that small of a quantity. SO I went to a commercial kiln in Torrance. I talked to the owner. I learned that they fired plates 12 hours a day, Monday thru Thursday. I asked him if I could rent his shop Sunday night, when they had to heat up the kilns anyway. He finally agreed; I rented a truck to haul the plate. I arrived about 8 PM Sunday night; loaded the plates carefully into the first kiln;--fired the 1st kiln to 1350; for 6 hours, then moved them to cooling kiln for 4 hours. During the firing period, I swept, cleaned, dusted--the shop, office and heads. The owner came in at 7am Monday; found it all spotless--and that I had followed his instructions. We had to wait for final cooling, I boxed all 120 finished plates up. He asked me when I wanted to use his shop again--at no charge. I spared you a lot of the details on the  research, and the false starts. YOUR'E welcome.